April 18, 2024
The voyage commences in this green and pleasant land, perhaps in the less renowned Ireland of the two that share the same island. Gorgeous scenery, a wealth of history, and friendly people may all be found in Northern Ireland, a picturesque region of the United Kingdom. From the iconic Giant’s Causeway to Belfast’s energetic metropolitan life to the lush, verdant countryside dotted with charming villages, Northern Ireland is an oasis for those who enjoy the natural world. Locals surround you with traditional music, delicious local food, and a ‘craic’ that makes you feel at home. Belfast, the dynamic capital, greets me upon arrival. It is a city that skillfully combines contemporary and heritage. There is something for everyone, from the famous Titanic Belfast museum to the bustling St. George’s Market. The museum, a chronology of Belfast’s industrial past focusing on the nautical engineering marvel and its terrible demise, is expertly and sympathetically curated. My plan was to keep food simple, so I went in search of Irish stew. I found my prey in Belfast’s oldest pub, Whites Tavern, established in 1630. The food was fresh, delicious, warming and filling. The bowl was brimming with generous chunks of lamb, potatoes, and carrots and was served with crusty herbed sourdough bread. Dinner is eaten so early that it’s practically midday, a schedule I repeatedly failed to stick to. As a result, I maintained my haemoglobin levels by consuming a lot of the black stuff in the evenings — sláinte. Plenty of the establishments I frequented boasted about having “the best Guinness you will ever have..” from reviewers. Regardless, it’s incredible how quickly nature can turn an accumulation of smooth, bitter velvet into a sticky, black mass. The next day, I travelled north along the renowned coastal road. Strong winds, undoubtedly brought on by the Guinnesses of the previous night, laid ill plans for rope bridge excursions that had transformed into ‘kings of the swingers’ overnight in the battering gails. It was difficult to tell the difference between the coast and coastal roads as the rain continued to drive horizontally and punch relentlessly against the shoreline. At one point, I overtook two tugs, a trawler and a forlorn frigate, giving each a wide berth. Considering the rainy conditions and the fact that I was travelling alone, I regretted not bringing a common oar from my previous night’s misadventures. One important life lesson is to go more slowly the more hurried you are. Despite travelling on twisting, turning cliff-side roads, at times in challenging weather, there was no accident—just the ignominy of toilet break shrinkage brought on by the chill, piercing winds. A single malt at the world’s oldest licenced whiskey distillery, Bushmills, chased away the chills and coincidentally presented a giant opening in the clouds, so it was off to the Causeway to capitalise on the sporadic blue skies. A particular bucket list item for me was to see nature’s crystalline geolithocal masterpiece, and I leisurely embraced the surreal stacks and rocks that this UNESCO-recognized cove is famed for. An Assiette of Pork was on the menu that night, a treat to sate my swine salivations. Each piece of the porker was cooked and presented magnificently by those at the historic 17th-century Bushmills Inn. When I got there, my pre-selected Portrush fish and chip shop, The Kraken, was having its enormous tentacles maintained, so I sought safety in The Shelter, a nearby converted RNIL launch. The crunchy fries and excellent crispy fried cod averted my hunger pangs. With accents as thick as an Ulster Chowder, I often found myself leaning forward at an awkward pitch until they came slower and louder. The accents are now still an indistinguishable thick Ulster Chowder, just slower and louder! Derry was the final stop of the road trip. A treasure trove brimming with warmth and history is tucked away behind the ancient walls. Ireland’s past can be glimpsed in the walled city of Derry, with its quaint cobblestone alleys and rich heritage. Ironically, I found myself at a dive bar next to the town’s Guild Hall for an electronic music festival. Eating was cheating. Again. The true warmth of the Irish people was what really made Northern Ireland special. Folks welcome you with smiles and open arms as soon as you set foot in this country. The warmth of Irish hospitality is evident, whether you’re chatting with a local at a pub or getting helpful advice for seeing the country. And given I still have a few rope bridges to conquer, I will likely be back. To be continued…